My Rural Travelogue (XXII): Back in rural (aging, white and gentrified) Maine after nearly a decade

I have spent the past few days in Maine, following the Maine Law Review's symposium on rural access to justice.  I'd thought seriously about heading up to "The County" (Aroostook), but my energy waned, and it's been easy just to hug the coast, which is so gorgeous and enticing. Plus, there is plenty of rural to see here, including as I passed the mid-coast area and up to what locals call "Down East," as far as Acadia National Park.   (Does "down" here mean south--in contrast to the far northern and inland parts of the state, such as Penobscot, Piscataquis and Aroostook counties?)

As I began this post and was trying to figure out what "number" it would be, I saw that my very first Rural Travelogue post, from 2008 (!) was about rural Maine--specifically the south coast area around Ogunquit.  I guess I had not quite figured out the photo thing at that point because the post doesn't feature any!  I'll try to make up for that with a few in this one.

Winnegance Bakery/Cafe/General Store

I headed out of Portland, Maine on Monday morning and persisted along Route 1 rather than traverse the first part of the journey along I-295, which my traffic app kept nudging me to do.  I thus saw the commercial areas of towns like Yarmouth and Falmouth en route to Bath, where I headed down the peninsula to Phippsburg, population 2,216, and eventually to Popham Beach, where remains of Popham Fort (which guarded the entrance to the Kennebec River dating back to Revolutionary War times) can still be explored.  (Interestingly, Phippsburg, like the Sagdahoc County seat of Bath, is part of the Portland-South Portland-Biddeford Metro area).  I'd planned to have lunch at one of the restaurants farthest south on the peninsula, like Spinney's which my guidebook told me is "open every day."  Turns out Spinney's, like so many service establishments in coastal Maine, is a seasonal establishment, which means that "every day" runs from May 1 (or so) 'til Labor Day.  (Also turns out that Spinneys, like a number of establishments I've seen in coastal Maine and in other rural parts of the United States, is for sale; this largely seasonal, service industry business looks rough).

As I worked my way back north on the peninsula, I stopped to take photos of lots of sights, including the Phippsburg school (looks like elementary only) and the town hall and fire station.  I'd already stopped at the Phippsburg Congregational Church and Phippsburg Library as I traveled south.  I took a photo also of the VFW/hunting club, too, which was somewhat more rustic than the other public buildings.

Regulars at Winnegance Bakery/Cafe/General Store

Driving toward Bath and passing through a wide spot in the road called Winnegance, I saw that the General Store/Restaurant/Bakery there was much busier (based on the number of cars in the slip of a "parking lot" out front) than it had been on my way south.  I also noticed that the establishment had gotten favorable mention from my guidebook, so I pulled in.

The place was nearly full, but I was able to grab a table near the door.  The largest table in the place was full of elderly white women--half a dozen or more, clearly local regulars.  Shortly after I arrived, a stooped elderly man, also white, arrived; they knew him and invited him to join them.  Several other patrons of the restaurant were also elderly and white, though a mixed race, multi-generational family and some motorcyclists were also there.  Still, I couldn't help think how this scene represented what I've repeatedly heard about Maine (from Mainers)--it's the oldest and whitest state in the nation, which is interesting because the public buildings tend also to be white ....  (Well, that's what people say--a quick Google search reveals that Vermont is "whiter" by a smidgen, and New Hampshire is third).

Winnegance Bakery/Restaurant/General Store

Had a great meal (salad with fresh hake and some incredible seafood chowder) before heading back to Highway 1 for my trek on up the coast.  Next stops, Wiscasset (Lincoln County, Sheepscot River), Waldoboro (Lincoln County, Medomak River), and Camden (Knox County).

View in front of Winnegance Bakery/Cafe/General Store